In 1931, the small coastal city of Napier was completely destroyed by a massive earthquake. In 2006, the city was nominated for UNESCO world heritage status. How did the people of Napier raise their city from rubble to riches? I decided to visit the town in February 2020 during its world famous art deco festival to find out.
The Art Deco Phoenix
At 10:47am on 3rd February 1931, an earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale struck Napier. The seismic waves caused buildings to sway violently, their walls buckled and ceilings collapsed. People who escaped onto the streets were crushed by the avalanches of masonry and mortar. This tragic day still remains New Zealand's deadliest natural disaster.
The complete destruction of Napier left the surviving residents with an unique opportunity; to completely rebuild their city from the rubble covered ground up and become the newest city in the world.
Various styles were discussed until the style of "art deco" was chosen - a style that symbolised the new spirit of the 20th century, influenced by the recent huge breakthroughs in science and a frenzy of exciting archaeological discoveries from ancient Egypt and Central America; an art style that represented the dawning of a new age would shape the dawning of a new city.
Only when it is gone
As the decades passed, the spirited art deco architecture began to tire and fade. Buildings started to be torn down to make way for modern soulless glass structures. The Napier residents began to notice these ugly holes being punched into the art deco tapestry. Realising their art deco heritage was under threat from mindless development the residents started an "art deco appreciation day". Napier's art deco was now unique in the world as no city had as much art deco architecture. Funding started to appear and the tired facades were restored to their former glory. The revival continued as art deco appreciation day grew into a festival and began attracting both national and international attention. Tourists from around the world started to arrive in Napier for the festival, dressed in vintage clothing, driving vintage cars.
One day like this
I visited Napier in February 2020 for the art deco festival. There were too many activities to photograph them all; from vintage cars, prohibition bars to film noirs. We arrived in time for the airshow. Vintage planes swooping over the town, the deep reverb of their engines echoing across the bay. Below the airshow the car parade was starting to assemble. A motorcade of beautifully crafted metalwork, a symphony of roaring engines and the smell of brass and burnt oil.
I really loved how each car had its own distinct personality. From the small plucky explorer in safari beige, the sophisticated family carriage in sapphire blue and the shady villain-mobile in midnight purple.
After the motorcade I was driven around Napier with two friends in a Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost. This masterpiece of workmanship with its cream metal panels and polished chrome machinery moved surprisingly fast. Our lap around Napier was over far too soon.
The Car Parade
Remembering time in memorial
I ended the evening at The Soundshell. Under the coral pink concentric archways, bands played to a crowd dressed in their best vintage evening wear. It was the perfect end to a memorable day. Seeing all the festival goers dressed in vintage clothing dancing to timeless music really epitomised the experience.
In this modern world there seems to be so much emphasis on progress and hurtling headfirst into the future. Taking the time to stop for a moment (preferably a weekend in Napier) and look back at where we came from can be a truly humbling experience. Celebrating the past makes you optimistic for the future.
Evening at The Soundshell
Fashion show at The Soundshell
People of the art deco
